Bad pruning is worse than no pruning. Topping, lion-tailing and stub cuts leave trees with rot pockets, weak regrowth and shortened lifespans. Alpine Arborism prunes properly: cuts placed at the right point, at the right angle, so your trees keep their shape, their health and their long-term value.
Pruning types we do
- Crown lifting. Raising the lower limbs to clear sightlines, driveways, fences, parking or pedestrian areas, without changing the tree's overall shape.
- Crown thinning. Selective removal of small live branches throughout the canopy to reduce wind load and improve light penetration, without changing the tree's outline or size.
- Crown reduction. Reducing the height or spread of a tree where it has outgrown its position, using natural-target cuts back to suitable lateral branches. Never topping.
- Deadwooding. Removing dead, dying or diseased branches that pose a fall risk or invite further decay.
- Formative pruning. Young-tree training to develop strong branch architecture and avoid future structural problems.
- Clearance pruning. Branches over rooves, fences, neighbours' properties, footpaths or roads, cut back to suitable junctions, not stubbed.
- Fruit tree pruning. Apples, pears, plums, citrus, feijoas, winter or summer pruning to balance crop and tree health.
- Restorative pruning. Repairing trees that have previously been badly pruned or storm-damaged.
Why proper cuts matter
Where a cut goes matters. Outside the branch collar, at the right angle, never leaving a stub, never cutting flush. Cuts placed properly seal over cleanly in a season or two. Bad cuts leave open wounds, invite borers and fungi, and shorten the tree's life.
Our climbers can show you where each cut is going before they make it. If you've had previous pruning done elsewhere and you're not sure whether it was right, we're happy to take a look and tell you what we see.
The best time to prune in New Zealand
Most amenity pruning in NZ is done in late autumn through to early spring (May–September), when trees are dormant or pre-flush. Exceptions:
- Stone fruit (plum, cherry, apricot): prune in summer after harvest to reduce silverleaf risk.
- Bleeders (maples, birches, walnuts): prune in mid-summer to avoid heavy sap flow.
- Spring-flowering ornamentals (cherry blossom, magnolia): prune immediately after flowering.
- Pohutukawa & rata: light shaping outside the flowering period (avoid Nov–Jan).
- Eucalyptus: anytime, but autumn-winter is gentler on the tree.
- Hedges: see our hedge trimming page.
See our full NZ pruning calendar by species for the detail.
What's included in our pruning quote
- On-site assessment before any cuts.
- Climb-and-rope or MEWP access, whichever is safest for the tree.
- All cuts.
- Brash chipped on site, chips removed (or left as mulch if you'd like).
- Lawn rake and hard-surface blow-down before we leave.
- Disposal at a licensed green-waste facility.
Pruning cost in New Zealand
Pruning is priced on time and complexity. A standard residential crown lift on a single mid-sized tree might be 2–3 climber-hours; a full structural prune on a mature oak in a tight site could be a half-day. Access, height and the amount of brash all affect price. Send a photo through the quote form and we'll come back with a number you can rely on.